Photography: The New Black Vanguard

In his new book The New Black Vanguard: Photography between Art and Fashion, curator and critic Antwaun Sargent discusses the radical transformation occurring in fashion and art today. Presenting the Black figure, Black runway, and cover models in media and art has been a significant indicator of the growing inclusivity in fashion and art communities. Even more importantly, the contemporary visual language surrounding beauty and the body has been revitalized and given greater depth, thanks to a surge in powerful images produced by a global community of Black photographers.

Sargent's essay, accompanied by a wealth of illustrations, delves into the role of the Black body in the marketplace, the interconnectedness of art, fashion, and culture in shaping an image, as well as the historical institutional barriers that have hindered Black photographers from fully participating in the fashion and art industries. The book features portfolios from fifteen leading contemporary fashion photographers, including Tyler Mitchell, the first Black photographer hired to shoot a cover story for American Vogue; Campbell Addy, founder of the Nii Agency and journal; and Nadine Ijewere, whose early series, The Misrepresentation of Representation, speaks volumes about the industry.

Conversations between different generations, complemented by their images and stories, provide a comprehensive history of inclusion and exclusion in the development of the commercial Black image. Simultaneously, these conversations propose an inspiring reimagining of the future. The book also includes stunning photographs by Campbell Addy, Arielle Bobb-Willis, Micaiah Carter, Awol Erizku, Nadine Ijewere, Quil Lemons, Namsa Leuba, Renell Medrano, Tyler Mitchell, Jamal Nxedlana, Daniel Obasi, Ruth Ossai, Adrienne Raquel, Dana Scruggs, and Stephen Tayo. Additionally, it features conversations with Shaniqwa Jarvis, Mickalene Thomas, and Deborah Willis.

product information: